Sunday, November 30, 2008
More Graffiti
Friday, November 28, 2008
American Holidays: Football and Thanksgiving at Loring
Most of all, though, was the little electrical currents tingling about in anticipation of, you guessed it, football. The dudes kept talking longingly of the NFL (three games!) and how we could swing some Pay-per-view to watch it live overseas. But it wasn’t just the watching of the football that we were looking forward to, but the playing of it. Weeks in advance the Thanksgiving Day game was planned, with intrepid Associate Members exploring the wilds of Greek sporting goods stores in search of the elusive, cherished, and mythical American football. (One was discovered, at the cost of 34 euros. Ouch.)
Luckily, Sherry Fox’s sons had one that we could borrow, so the horde moved out just after noon on Thursday towards the one open space in Kolonaki. Alas, it was already occupied by a soccer game – this resulted in us playing (a little nervously) in an empty lot next to the US Embassy. Here are some highlights:
The main event for Thanksgiving here is, of course, the food. The entire School is invited to attend dinner, and this year 98 people decided to show up in their holiday best. We had ten tables, but rumor has it there were 17 turkeys. The event was organized by Shari and Jack Davis, who did a really fantastic job and ensured that I sat at the table with not only John Cherry but Sir John Boardman as well.
And thus ended my first Thanksgiving at the School. Good thing there's a pig roast scheduled for today, to ensure that the fun continues.
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Street Art and Graffiti in Athens
Saturday, November 22, 2008
The School's Secret Stash of Science Fiction and Fantasy
One of the more significant assortments to be found in Loring Hall was acquired from the Blegen/Hill estate. I’ve mentioned the Blegen’s and the Hill’s on repeated occasions, but it’s also good to know that not only did they leave an imprint on the political and social history of the School, but they also left behind quite a bit of material culture that has been absorbed into the School's physical landscape. Part of that material culture includes an enormous collection of mystery novels, dating from the 1930s to 1940s.
The Blegen’s and the Hill’s were best friends: Carl and his wife Elizabeth, Bert and his wife Ida. They shared a house in Athens at 9 Plutarch St. and when Blegen died in 1971, he left the house and everything in it to the School. The papers within it now form a large part of the School’s Archives, and bits of their furniture and other material culture spread out from there. The mystery books made it over to Loring Hall, where they are now in the TV Room.
It’s quite a collection. I asked Bob Bridges about it last night at Ouzo, and he told me that the books were mostly collected by Elizabeth and Ida, who actually had formed a little Crime club of sorts! The titles are in themselves amazing:
But it was not until two days ago that I actually discovered the School’s really secret stash of genre books. I was across the street in the Blegen Library and stopped in the lounge on the lowest floor. A small book shelf stood in the corner, and it was to here, I discovered, that the SF books of the School had been making their way. (NB: SF = Speculative Fiction = Sci-Fi/Fantasy/Horror/Comics/Etc.)
I’d been wondering about them, actually. With all the books that are collected here, why were there so few science-fiction and fantasy novels? People make jokes about nerdy sci-fi fans lurking at society’s margins, but in fact these marginal people are actually quite numerous (and in today’s comic book culture, nearly the majority of those under 30). So where were the books? Again, Bob Bridge’s held the key. Apparently, there were a fair number of not only speculative fiction titles floating around, but also harlequin romances. Bob was aware that there are certain types of books that certain people do NOT like to see; it was safer, then, to move those books elsewhere, to a place where they would not offend certain sensibilities. He was right to do so: it seems the harlequin romances were thrown out a few years back. But the speculative fiction books are still there, and are in fact quite impressive, very old school, with lots of Daw Books titles. Bob says he’s been grouping them together for as long as he’s been back at the School, since about 1982. Have a look:
The Secret Stash Discovery has been a highlight for me. Perhaps I’ll see how many 1930s mysteries and 1980s SF I can get through before Christmas. And let's hope the Secret Stash, no longer secret since I've revealed it on the Internet, survives and prospers. I'll make sure to add to it as much as I can.
Monday, November 17, 2008
Nafplio and Corinth, Oral History and Excavation Photos
Nafplio was, as per usual, fantastic. I’d spent six weeks there a few summers back working at the Argive Heraion, and when I was there, appreciating the view of the bay from my balcony, I had no inkling of how fortunate I really was. Now I’ve been around Greece just a bit, and Nafplio has risen in my esteem to a glowing shiny height equivalent to the Palamidi at night.
It is also the birthplace of Beast Cat, who emigrated back to America with me 3 ½ years ago.
I remember our five days in Nafplio as peaceful, content ones, although I also logically recall being cranky and annoyed on multiple occasions. But all those moments seem to leech away in the happy haze of long dinners outside, charming streets and nightly gelato. I believe there might have been some Bronze Age stuff, too, probably?
The second part of our trip was based in Corinth; our guide on Trip 4 was Guy Sanders, the director of the Corinth excavations, tall, rangy, constantly smoking. His trip was marked by long morning hikes, inexplicable British slang, and a general feeling of laid-back-ed-ness.
When he showed us around Corinth, I had the distinct feeling that he was showing us around his backyard. Of course, he literally did show us his backyard, where he had built an experimental kiln; his two dogs even welcomed us and watched us go (mournfully) each day at the dig house. Corinth had a home-y and historical feel, perhaps because of Guy’s long experience with the area and his reminiscences, as well as the tight connection between ancient Corinth and the American School.
In fact, the School began excavating at Corinth in 1896 and has been doing so ever since, minus breaks during the World Wars. The work there is intimately tied to the Regular Year Program, since in the Spring Quarter, Regular Members excavate there for a number of weeks and have been doing so for decades. The staff working in Corinth was fantastic to us: every day we ate lunch until bursting at the Corinth dig house, we took long tours in the excavation storerooms, and were treated to lectures in the living room.
Since then, others have searched the tunnels as well, better equipped, I think, then Swift and Blegen, who described tunnels so full of water and mud that they had to hold their mouths right up to the very tunnel roof in order to get oxygen.
It’s a bit cleaner in our day, but at least we can add another photo to the Peirene palimpsest accumulating at Corinth; I’ll make sure to tell the story of my first visit to all the little snot-nosed Regular Members when I’m 80, in Loring, over pastichio.
Riot Munchies
November 17, 2008
The Embassy has instructed Embassy employees and family members in the Athens neighborhoods of Kolonaki and Ampelokipi to remain in their residences between 4 pm November 17, 2008 and 6 am November 18, 2008. We suggest that Americans in these areas follow similar precautions.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Biggest Nerd News in Years
Will HBO actually go through with it? Who knows. The producer of the show, David Benioff, has commented, "High fantasy has never been done on TV before and if anybody can do it, it’s HBO. They’ve taken tired genres and reinvented them — mobsters in The Sopranos and Westerns with Deadwood.” Of course, subscribers to HBO might remember with some bitterness the debacle that was the end of Carnivale, a stunning series that HBO threw out after two seasons, resulting in one of the most gut-wrenching of cliff-hangers in recent TV history. I myself have never forgiven HBO.
But they were able to pull off Rome, and even included some curse tablets in it.
So we can hope. For the moment, websites everywhere are crashing as rabid ASoIaF fans flock to the Interwebs, looking for news and huzzahing virtually from all corners of the earth. Mostly they are happy because finally, 'Winter is Coming.'
Hell yeah.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
The Shotgun Files
For the most part, our Trip to the Argolid and Corinthia has been relatively safe. Perhaps this is because we were not visiting archaeological sites in olive groves on either a Sunday morning or on a holiday. It was on the last trip that we learned that such times are when Greek hunters come out in droves. As I posted previously, at both Kalapodi and the Theban Kabeirion we found ourselves in the midst of several bird hunters, who were stalking the surrounding hills under the olive trees. Luckily, Regular Member Karl Goetze made several recordings of our visits to these sites; I have finally gotten tech-savvy enough to figure out how to get these files onto my blog (thank you, third-party hosting sites).
In the this recording, you will hear Denver Graninger at work. Who is this Denver person, you ask? Denver is the Rhys Carpenter Fellow at the School this year. This means he comes on some of the trips with us and presents a number of the sites. The Rhys Carpenter Fellow is also affectionately known as the Mellonaki – the Little Mellon Professor. It is his job to assist the Mellon Professor, our Program leader, as necessary.
On this Tuesday morning (Oxi Day, thus a national holiday), Denver led us to the Kabeirion at Thebes. A sanctuary where local Mysteries took place, it is located outside of the city, nestled in some low hills on the edge of extensive agricultural fields.
To listen, download the file here: http://www.box.net/shared/fzdf4a9iqn
By this time I think we’d gotten used to the gunfire; note also that Denver never flinched once. [Insert joke about the bad-assery of archaeologists here.]
Friday, November 7, 2008
Picture Taking Habits, Travel, and The Mom Picture
There are so many photos being taken, actually, that sometimes the habit takes over and I find myself taking pictures for no reason; the physical motion has become so ingrained that I have no control over it any more. For example, today the group walked through the Berbati Valley; as we ambled up a dirt road we came across a very recently dead snake. It was so recent, in fact, that we thought it might still be alive. Fortunately, Karl was brave enough to poke it with a stick, revealing that yes, indeed, it was not of the living world any longer. The cameras came out immediately, on all sides. So what would possess me to take a picture of Karl standing in the middle of the road with a dead snake on a stick?
I have no idea why I took the picture. Other people snapped it as well. Is it because it was exciting to see a real live (dead) snake? Enh, that sounds redonk. Could it be that we have to preserve every mundane moment of the trip? Somewhat plausible? I guess every one of us has our own reasons for taking the dead snake picture, but I remember thinking how strange it was even as I became an automaton, lifting the camera to my eye, unable to see anything on the view finder because my sunglasses were too dark, but clicking the button anyways.
Besides the rather weird photos of every single thing that happens, Trip Photos can be grouped into several types:
1) Stuff Photos without People – these are the pictures of blocks, statues, objects, etc., that go into our permanent collection and have an academic purpose. They are boring.
2) People Photos – these are either posed or are natural, and eventually they will make it up on Facebook because they are more exciting.
3) The Mom Photo
The third thing about Mom Pictures is that they are group projects. They cannot be taken without the assistance of another human being, since camera-timers and tripods are not practical on top of Mycenaean citadels. This means that a person needs to ask someone else to take Mom Pictures, but must also take Mom Pictures for other people in return. Thus reciprocal relationships evolve over the trips, and the product of these picture-taking-cycles is a series of pictures spreading out in all directions across the earth to make Mom’s, somewhere, happy.